The crucial keys for a healthy plot are perfectly simple and will make a world of difference!
Words from managing director and head gardener of YouGarden, Peter McDermott:
“I’ve been growing plants professionally for over 40 years, and still nothing gives me more joy than pottering in my own garden, hose in one hand and a handful of fertiliser in the other. Whether I’m nurturing a freshly planted shrub or coaxing a reluctant clematis into bloom, one thing remains true: success in the garden often comes down to three things – water management, nutrition and weed control. Get those right, and you’re well on your way to gardening glory.
For me, gardening is a way of life. I love the science, I love the art and I love the magic of watching something grow from a dormant tuber into a flowering masterpiece. Whether I’m experimenting with a new compost blend, testing the latest slow-release feed or just admiring the runner beans over a morning coffee, giving the plants the care they deserve is the most important thing.
Water Wisely
In the UK, we can’t rely on the weather to do the watering for us, especially with our increasingly unpredictable climate. Long dry spells across all parts of the country are now a regular feature of summer. The best time to water is early in the morning – ideally before 9am. This gives the plants a good drink before the sun gets too strong, and allows foliage to dry off, which reduces the risk of fungal diseases like mildew. Watering in the evening is the next best thing, but it can encourage slugs and snails, so keep that in
mind if you’re growing hostas or young bedding plants.
But here’s the golden rule: water deeply and less frequently. Give your plants a proper soak a couple of times a week and they’ll reward you with better drought resilience and stronger growth. Never forget – watering is the easiest job in your garden to do badly and the most difficult to do well!
Mulch – The Unsung Hero
If there’s one practice I’d urge every gardener to adopt, it’s mulching. I know – it’s not glamorous. But goodness me, it works wonders – and looks great too!
Mulching, be it with well-rotted compost, bark chippings, straw, or even grass clippings, helps retain soil moisture, suppress weeds and improve soil structure over time. In my own borders, I spread a 5cm layer of organic mulch each spring, after the soil has warmed up. This not only locks in moisture but also adds organic matter as it breaks down – it’s like feeding the soil as well as the plants. In containers, mulch works, too. A thin layer of gravel, pebbles or decorative bark helps reduce evaporation and keeps the compost cooler on hot days. Just make sure your pots are well drained.
Mulching is great for suppressing weeds and will even make life harder for perennials such as bindweed or ground elder (although they may need more persistent effort). Hand-weeding is therapeutic and effective – just be sure to get the roots. Hoeing, little and often on dry days, is still one of the best ways to keep annual weeds at bay.
If you’re really struggling, consider a soil-cover crop like green manure or a weed suppressing membrane in difficult areas. And always pull out weeds before they flower – one dandelion in April equals 1,000 in June!
Environmental Benefits
Beyond the garden fence, good watering and mulching practices make environmental sense. Efficient water use reduces pressure on water supplies during hosepipe bans. Mulching cuts down on the need for
chemical weedkillers. And by improving your soil’s organic content, you’re also boosting its carbon storage potential. In short, gardening with nature in mind helps tackle the climate crisis in your own backyard.
Feeding Time
I’m evangelical about feeding! Plants, like us, need a balanced diet. Get it right and you’ll see stronger growth, better flowering and improved resistance to pests and diseases. For trees, shrubs and herbaceous perennials growing in the ground, I recommend a two-pronged approach: start with a good base fertiliser in early spring – something slow release like a granular feed high in potash and phosphate – then top up with liquid feeds during the growing season if needed. A product such as Vitax Q4 or good old-fashioned blood, fish and bone is a good starting point.
Perennials, especially heavy feeders such as delphiniums or lupins, really appreciate a boost just as they’re coming into growth. And don’t forget to water in the feed – dry granules on dry soil do little good.
Feeding Containers
Containers are a different beast altogether. Because compost in pots is limited, it gets exhausted quickly, especially with fast-growing annuals, fruiting plants or bulbs.
For these, I use a liquid feed every seven to 10 days from late spring onwards. Choose a balanced general-purpose feed for your container grown plants, and one that is higher in potash for flowering or fruiting plants. Trace elements such as magnesium, iron, zinc and boron are critical in pots, where deficiencies show up fast.
I also recommend controlled release fertiliser, which is often supplied as spherical pellets filled with fertiliser and is perfect for busy gardeners – they steadily release nutrients over six months and reduce the need to remember to add soluble feed to your watering can every weekend!
I’m evangelical about feeding! Plants, like us, need a balanced diet. Get it right and you’ll see stronger growth, better flowering and improved resistance to pests and diseases
Peter McDermott, Head Gardener
Plant Stimulants
Beyond NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium), there’s a world of natural plant boosters that I regularly use in my own garden trials. Seaweed extract is top of the list. It’s not technically a fertiliser, but a growth stimulant – rich in natural hormones and trace minerals that improve root development, stress resistance
and general plant health. I usually give my roses, fruit bushes and bedding plants a seaweed tonic every few weeks.
Humic and fulvic acids – found in many organic feeds and compost additives – are another fantastic tool. They improve soil structure, enhance nutrient uptake, and stimulate beneficial microbial activity in the root zone.
And then there’s mycorrhizal fungi. If you’re planting trees, shrubs or perennials, these beneficial fungi form symbiotic relationships with roots, helping them absorb water and nutrients more effectively. I use it religiously when planting anything long term – roses, fruit trees, climbers. Just sprinkle the granules directly on the roots at planting time.
In the end, good water management, feeding and weed control aren’t just about individual tasks – they’re about nurturing a thriving, balanced garden. Healthy soil means happy plants, and happy plants mean fewer pests, fewer problems and more pleasure. So mulch generously, water wisely, feed thoughtfully
and your garden will thank you in blooms, fruit and abundance.”
